Deltic Sound Fitting
Here is the Article From Railway Modeller January 2010 For Fitting Proper Sound To The Class 55 Deltic.
By Ian Harper Of Peasholm Models.
As a young teenager in the early 60’s I, like most teenagers couldn’t wait for the school holidays. At the first opportunity I would, complete with sandwiches, lemonade, binoculars & hopefully my dad’s precious camera catch an early train from my hometown of Scarborough to York for a day of train spotting. The main thing on my mind was always the same, how many A4’s would I see, but most importantly which A4’s would be on the named trains that passed through York at this time. On one of these visits around Easter 1961 my loyalty to steam was severely tested! Standing on platform nine I was waiting for the southbound ‘Flying Scotsman’ to appear through the station when I heard what was to me a very unusual engine humming sound totally different to anything I had heard before. Into view under the station canopy came this monster in the most stunning colour of Brunswick Green with lime green skirt and white window surrounds belching plumes of smoke skywards. The sound as it opened up towards Holgate bridge was pure magic, I had seen my first Deltic D9001. From that moment on I was an avid Deltic fan. I visited Northallerton on many occasions just to see these super Loco’s racing through the station at high speed.
When I heard that Neil Bishop of ‘Olivia’s Trains’ of Sheffield had developed a Deltic sound module using the excellent Loksound for the Bachman Deltic I just knew I had to have one. On speaking with Neil I found that fitting one was not going to be as easy as I first thought however, with a little advice from Neil I decided to have a go.
Neil recommended using a bass reflex speaker which for the extra £9 is well worth having. The total cost is around £109
What follows is how I managed to fit it.
Dismantling the Loco
The first thing to do is remove the six body/chassis fixing screws two each at either end and two at opposing sides of the fuel tanks. The body will then come off but be careful when doing this as there are quite a few wires which you could pull out if care is not taken.
I would suggest marking the inside of the body with a pencil which end is the front (It has the driver in it) as the two centre fixings are of different lengths. Place the bodyshell somewhere safe before moving on to stripping the chassis down.
At this point I drew a plan of the circuit board where the wires are fitted for the bogies & motor. Most are marked where they go.
Unscrew the two screws which hold the printed circuit board in place and carefully remove the four wires that come from the two bogies and the two from the motor. These are held in place with push on plastic lugs (be careful not to lose the lugs) Once disconnected you can re-fix the circuit board to the chassis as it is safer than been left loose.
Next you need to unscrew the two bogie mounting screws and carefully remove from the chassis complete with the drive shafts which just pull out. You will, at the same time need to feed the two pickup wires you have disconnected through the holes in the metal chassis. Place the bogies in a safe place.
Carefully unclip the four lugs that hold the metal top chassis to the lower plastic one & split the two.
The motor can now be removed from the chassis
By carefully prising from the two plastic mountings with a flat bladed screwdriver. It is held at either side near the two flywheels and should not have too much pressure placed on it when removing. Remove carefully along with the two feed wires. At this stage you should have parts as shown in
Fitting The Speaker
We now move onto the plastic chassis with the fuel tanks
First remove the metal block from the base by undoing the two screws. Using a mini-drill with a cutting disc I carefully remove the two weight locating lugs down to the base followed by the two ridges that run along either side on the inside of the fuel tanks. Be careful not to remove to much plastic or you will cut through the tanks to the outside! You do not have to go completely into either corner as the speaker fits easily into the base. With a bit of production paper I then flat off all the disc marks until fairly smooth followed by careful removal of any bits of plastic left with a scalpel blade between the fuel tanks in the middle. You should then have a chassis as in
Moving on to the speaker
you will need to remove the two plastic lips that run across the back of the speaker with a sharp blade otherwise it could foul the motor on reassembly. I then fix the speaker into the fuel tank opening
keeping it to the end that corresponds with the metal chassis end with the cut out in it (where the Bachmann speaker would have been fitted had the cut out not been to shallow). You will find two holes in the chassis that you can push the speaker wires through when reassembling (Thank you Bachmann). You have now finished this part of project & we move on to the metal chassis.
Modifying The Metal Chassis
The first thing I did here was to mark a line approximately 4mm along the four parts of the bottom of the chassis where they fit into the plastic base with the speaker in
The reason for this is to allow the two chassis to fit back together without fouling the speaker. At this point Neil at Olivia’s Trains told me that it may go back together without having to remove any metal. When I did my first sound Deltic I used the earlier model & you had to remove metal on that one to make it fit. I would suggest a trial run to see if the two parts will click back together with the speaker fitted in the base. If you encounter problems then you will have to file off the 4mm as above. I held the chassis in a vice carefully & removed most of the metal with my mini-drill & disc & finished with a file to make sure it was square
Make sure you clean all the filings away after you finish. Again try a dry run to see if it clicks back together. Once happy it fits we can move on to reassembly.
With a little glue (Evostik or Bostik All purpose) stick the speaker into the fuel tank well towards the end with the two holes in the metal chassis with the speaker wires facing towards the same end
(Picture H). Refit the motor into the supporting cradle in the metal chassis at the same time pushing the feed wires back through the holes provided in the chassis. I found when doing my loco that the suppressors on the motor which are an orange colour needed to be carefully bent over the side of the motor so as not to foul the speaker. Position the two speaker wires one either side of the chassis and push through the two spare holes in the metal chassis at the same time pushing the two chassis’s together until the four lugs click into place (do not use excessive force)
Next you will need to re-fit the two bogies carefully pushing the four feed wires through the holes in the metal chassis. You will also need to line up the driveshafts with the sockets in either end of the motor. To say this is a bit fiddly is an understatement! Once in place replace the screws that hold them in place.
You now have quite a few wires which is where the diagram you made at the start comes into play. Just follow your plan & re-fix the wires in place through the little holes in the circuit board & push on the little black lugs.
Re-screw the circuit board back down onto the chassis.
At this stage you are left with the two wires from the speaker which will need soldering onto the two locating lugs marked SPK + & SPK –
It doesn’t matter which way round you solder them. It is a good idea to shorten the leads a little before soldering so they don’t take up to much space.
The last job is to fix the twenty one pin sound decoder into place on the circuit board. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE!
Remove the twenty one pin blanking plug with some tweezers or small screwdriver taking care not to bend any of the pins. The sound module lines up with the pins with the two blank holes one in the module & one on the circuit board directly opposite each other
Double check all your wires against your plan one lead at a time to make sure you have wired everything correctly.
Before putting any tape over the wires to hold them in place I would suggest you check out the loco on your programming track first. As with all decoders you will find this one set at number three. For checking you can leave it at this setting. To access the sound you press function one & the loco should fire up. Refer to the operating instructions that come with it from Olivia’s Trains for all the settings of which there are quite a few. I understand from Neil that some of the sounds are sourced from one of the preserved Deltics & come with full DPS approval. Once happy with your work place a little insulating tape over any loose wires and replace the body. There you have it, to me a great sounding loco that will bring back all those happy memories of days gone by sitting by the line side listening to Deltics roaring past.
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